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How To Sew A Hat

19 June 2016
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Kendra Welch
Kendra Welch

This lovely hat is quite practical too. It will be good for trips, walks, out-of-town parties, or just shopping.

What you will need:

  • Coral linen cloth: length 40 cm, width 140 cm;
  • Nonwoven Chabrac S 320, white (with dense adhesive gasket): length 50 cm, width 90 cm;
  • Cotton bias binding: corny yellow for the edging: length 5 m, width 2 cm;
  • Coral thread;
  • Yellow thread (for the edging);
  • Cotton pieces for the flowers: yellow beige 20х10 cm and bright yellow 30х7.5 cm

Step 1: Cut the details and iron the gasket

Transfer the details to paper scaling if necessary: the sum of the lengths of the outer sides of the crown should be 56–57 cm. Cut the paper details and put them to the cloth and the gasket.

Cut out the following details of linen with the allowances 1 cm from all sides:

  • 4 brim details.
  • 4 crown details.
  • 2 bottom details.

Cut out the following details of chabrac without any allowances:

  • 2 brim details.
  • 2 crown details.
  • 1 bottom detail.

Iron the chabrac details to the corresponding details of linen leaving the allowances. It will be the outer side of the hat.

Step 2: Sew the crown and the brim details

Put the two brim details with the linen face to face to each other and sew the short side seam. You will get a ring. Then sew the brim details without linen in the same way.

Then put the two crown details with the linen face to face to each other and sew the short side seams. Do the same to the crown details without the linen but leave a hole in order to be able to turn it out afterwards.

Step 3: Sew the inner and the outer brim of the hat

Pin two brim details back to back to each other. Sew the upper and the lower open cuts. Cut the allowances close to the seam.

Step 4: Attach the crown and the bottom

Mark with pins four similar segments on the outer crown and bottom details. First, fold the details in half across, pin them along the folds. Then fold them across once again and pin them along the folds.

Pin the outer crown and bottom details face to face to each other, so the marks match. Sew the outer crown and bottom details. Sew the inner crown and bottom details in the same way. Cut the allowances close to the seams every time. Put the two hat details without the brim (the outer and the inner ones) one into another face to face as shown in the picture. All marks should match.

Step 5: Sew the brim to the hat

Mark four similar segments the same way as in the step 4. Put the brim inside the hat and pin them face to face to the lower edge of the hat’s outer part matching the pin marks with the crown seams. Sew the seam around.

Pin the allowances to the crown detail. Then pin it face to face to the top of the brim detail of the inner part. The brim should stay inside. Sew it around. Cut the allowances close to the seam. Turn out the hat to the face side through the hole left in the seam. Iron the seams. Turn the allowances up and sew them from the face side. Sew the hole manually.

Step 6: Edge the brim using the bias binding

Edge the outer edges using the bias binding. Open the binding, tuck the allowances and pin this side to the outer edges of the brim face to face beginning from a seam at the hat’s brim. The binding’s fold and the edge should match. Pin them. Turn the binding to the other side, tuck the allowances and pin them. Then sew all the layers tucking the binding’s ends. Sew the edging with the yellow thread up to the allowances’ edge.

Step 7: Sew the flowers

Cut the piece of the yellow cloth in halves, so you get 2 strips 15х7.5 cm each. Sew every strip at the short sides in a ring for the flowers. Press the allowances apart. Sew every open cut with long stitches. Leave the thread’s edges. Fold every strip in half back to back and draw the threads. Spread the folds evenly, tie the threads’ ends. Sew them to the hat. You can sew some buttons to the flowers if you want to.

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