You can use this technique to sew corsets regardless of size or gender of the future wearer.
1. This is how your patterns should look – all marked according to the order of assembly and with allowances.
2. This is how the cutting of the main fabric and the lining should look. Duplicate the whole piece that you need for the corset with woven interfacing, and then cut it out. Woven interfacing allows to strengthen the fabric and to maintain flexibility.
3. First, you are to assemble the lining successively joining the parts. Then pin them together in three spots and sew them up with the 0.5 cm. stitch. After that incise the allowances to 3-4 mm where the waist should start.
4. Now, lay out all the parts successively according to the order of assembly not to mix up similar parts.
5. After the lining is assembled hemstitch all the seams 1 mm in the face except for the side ones. You should also leave the side seams in case you need to adjust the width.
6. Then you are to assemble the corset from the main fabric the way you did it with the lining and sew it up with the lining from one side.
7. Now, iron out the main fabric allowances to both sides and overstitch them to make them lay down flatly.
8. This is how the corset should look from the face with the overstitched cord seams.
9. Fold top and low hems of the corset and level them from the middle of the central part of the face to the edges.
10. Tack top and low hems of the lining and the main fabric corset; check the fit and the correspondence of the lining and the main fabric corset in width. You can also adjust it in the side seams if necessary.
11. Hemstitch the cord seams 2 mm from both sides of the sewed up seams. Thus, you form a pocket for regilin.
12. This is how the spread corset should look.
13. Sew a piece of décor on the central part of the corset. Cut out the tacks (oblique taping) and tack their top hems with a 5 mm seam. The width of the tack is 2.5 cm and the length equals the hem’s length + 2 cm.
14. Sew the tack with a 4 mm seam and baste the closed hem edge at the top.
15. Hemstitch the edge with a 1 mm seam.
16. This is how the regilin you strengthen the cord seams with should look. Cut it in halves so you get lines with two strings.
17. Insert the regilin into the pockets along the cord seams.
18. Bind the low hem of the corset the way you did the top hem.
19. Décor it as you wish. The only thing left to do for you is to put the lacing holes, to put the corset on your model and to be happy with the result.